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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the family completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.